3D Printing Materials Guide: PLA, ABS, PETG, TPU & More

PLA — The Universal Default

PLA (Polylactic Acid) is where everyone starts and where most people stay. It's made from corn starch, prints at low temperatures, doesn't smell, doesn't warp, and comes in literally every color you can imagine. If you're printing toys, decorations, prototypes, or display pieces, PLA is the answer 90% of the time.

Print settings: 190-215°C nozzle, 50-60°C bed (or no heated bed), 50-100mm/s speed. Works on any FDM printer ever made.

Strengths: Easy to print, sharp detail, massive color selection, biodegradable, cheap ($14-22/kg).

Weaknesses: Brittle under impact, softens at 55-60°C (don't leave prints in a hot car), poor outdoor durability.

Best brands: eSUN PLA+ (best value), Hatchbox PLA (consistent), Bambu Lab PLA Basic (cheapest good option at $15/kg), Polymaker PolyTerra (matte finish, cardboard spool).

Our entire flexi toy collection is designed for PLA. It's the material we recommend for all our print-in-place models.

PLA+ — The Better PLA

PLA+ (or PLA Pro) is modified PLA with additives that make it slightly tougher and less brittle. The difference is subtle but real — PLA+ parts bend a bit before breaking, while standard PLA snaps cleanly. Print settings are nearly identical to regular PLA, maybe 5°C hotter.

For articulated and flexi toys, PLA+ is ideal. The joints are less likely to snap when freed from the bed, and the model handles rough play better. eSUN PLA+ at $16-18/kg is the community darling and arguably the best filament deal in 3D printing.

ABS — The Old Guard

ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) is what LEGO bricks are made from. It's tough, heat-resistant (up to 100°C), and machines well. But it's a pain to print.

Print settings: 230-250°C nozzle, 90-110°C bed, enclosed printer strongly recommended. Prints warp aggressively without an enclosure.

Strengths: Heat resistance, impact toughness, can be vapor-smoothed with acetone for glass-smooth finish.

Weaknesses: Warps badly, emits fumes (print in ventilated area or enclosure with filter), requires high bed temps.

In 2026, fewer people print ABS because PETG and ASA cover most of the same use cases with less hassle. But if you need acetone smoothing or LEGO-compatible parts, ABS is still the material.

PETG — The Practical Choice

PETG (Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol) bridges the gap between PLA's ease and ABS's toughness. It's strong, slightly flexible, water-resistant, and food-safe (with caveats — layer lines trap bacteria, so it's only food-safe in theory).

Print settings: 220-245°C nozzle, 70-85°C bed, 40-60mm/s. Loves to string, so dial in retraction.

Strengths: Tough (bends before breaking), chemical resistance, good for outdoor use, transparent options available.

Weaknesses: Stringing (the #1 complaint), slightly hygroscopic (absorbs moisture — store in dry box), can be goopy at wrong temps.

Best for: Functional parts, mechanical components, outdoor items, anything that needs to survive impacts or weather. Not great for fine detail or print-in-place toys — joints tend to fuse.

TPU — The Flexible One

TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane) is rubber-like. It flexes, stretches, and bounces back. Shore hardness ranges from 85A (very soft, like a rubber band) to 95A (firm flex, like a phone case). Most consumer TPU is 95A.

Print settings: 220-240°C nozzle, 40-60°C bed, 20-30mm/s speed. Requires a direct drive extruder — Bowden tube setups jam TPU because the filament compresses and buckles in the tube.

Strengths: Flexible, impact-proof, grippy surface, vibration dampening.

Weaknesses: Hard to print (slow, strings a lot, fights Bowden extruders), expensive ($25-40/kg), not great for fine detail.

Best for: Phone cases, wheels, grips, bumpers, wearables, gaskets. Not recommended for print-in-place toys — joints fuse together more often than not.

ASA — ABS But Better

ASA (Acrylonitrile Styrene Acrylate) is the UV-stable cousin of ABS. Same strength and heat resistance, but it doesn't yellow or degrade in sunlight. Perfect for outdoor applications.

Print settings: 240-260°C nozzle, 90-110°C bed, enclosure required. Essentially the same as ABS.

Best for: Outdoor signs, garden accessories, automotive parts, anything that lives in sunlight. If you're printing yard decorations or external-facing functional parts, ASA is the material.

Specialty Filaments Worth Knowing

Silk PLA

PLA with additives that create a metallic sheen. Silk gold, silver, copper, and rainbow variants look stunning without any post-processing. Slightly weaker than standard PLA. Costs $18-25/kg. Brands: eSUN, TTYT3D, MIKA3D.

Wood/Carbon Fiber/Metal Fill PLA

PLA mixed with particles of wood, carbon fiber, or metal powder. Wood PLA smells like sawdust when printing and can be sanded and stained like real wood. Carbon fiber PLA is stiffer and lighter. Metal-fill PLA can be polished to look like actual metal. All of these wear out brass nozzles quickly — use a hardened steel nozzle ($8-15).

Nylon

Extremely strong and impact-resistant. Print temps of 250-270°C, bed at 70-80°C, enclosure required. Absorbs moisture aggressively — must be dried before printing and stored in a dry box. Best for functional parts that need serious strength: gears, brackets, living hinges.

Polycarbonate (PC)

The toughest common filament. Heat-resistant to 140°C, nearly unbreakable. But it needs 280-310°C nozzle temps and an all-metal hotend. Advanced material for advanced users.

How to Choose the Right Material

• Decorative prints, toys, gifts: PLA or PLA+
• Functional parts (indoor): PETG
• Outdoor use: ASA or PETG
• Flexible parts: TPU
• High heat exposure: ABS or ASA
• Maximum strength: Nylon or Polycarbonate
• Beautiful display pieces: Silk PLA

When in doubt, start with PLA. You can always reprint in a tougher material once you've confirmed the design works. Browse our model collection for designs optimized for PLA with recommended settings included.